Booking is not an option, and there is no certainty about who might be encountered, but these shelters offer an excellent way to explore Britain's remote corners—completely free of charge.
Ascending to the top of a valley in Wales' Cambrian Mountains, the silence was striking. The usual hum of modern life, which often goes unnoticed, became conspicuous in its absence.
This absence serves as a reliable indicator of having entered one of Britain's remote areas—a key clue when searching for a bothy, one of the free-to-use shelters scattered across the country's wilderness.
Established in 1965, the Mountain Bothy Association (MBA) is a registered charity dedicated to maintaining "simple shelters in remote areas for those who cherish wild and solitary places
The organisation oversees more than 100 bothies in Scotland, Wales, and Northern England.
The system operates on a simple premise. Bothies are open to everyone and free of charge. They cannot be reserved, and an unwritten rule dictates that a bothy is never considered full (although groups larger than six and commercial groups are discouraged from using them). By adhering to the MBA's Bothy Code, which emphasizes respect for others, the bothy, and its surroundings, anyone is welcome.
However, locating these shelters can be a challenge. Although grid references are available online, mobile signals cannot always be relied upon, and even with a detailed map, finding them can prove difficult.
A Tour Of The Cambrian Mountains
Video by Dan Exits Street View
While hiking a network of trails in the "Green Desert of Wales," named for its sparse population and lack of infrastructure, plans were made to spend the night at Nant Syddion bothy before heading to Aberystwyth, the nearest large town, the following day. Given the scarcity of structures in the area, locating the bothy seemed straightforward. However, navigating forestry tracks as the sun set raised doubts about whether it would be found at all.
Finally, the reflection of a window through the trees provided relief. Following a steep path led to a two-storey stone building that resembled a home placed in the wilderness, complete with smoke spiraling from its chimney. This was Nant Syddion, a former residence of a lead miner and his family, now serving as a temporary shelter for hikers.
Every bothy carries a history, having been repurposed from its original use. Most were once shepherd's huts, farmsteads, or workers' accommodations. With the decline of hill farming in the early 20th century, remote areas saw dwindling populations, leaving many buildings abandoned.
Following World Event Two, as hiking and mountaineering gained popularity, outdoor enthusiasts began using these abandoned structures as shelters. The MBA was founded by Bernard Heath and his associates to restore and maintain them for like-minded individuals.
Remote upland locations are harsh on buildings, with wind and rain causing significant wear. However, upon arrival, Nant Syddion was found to be watertight and functional, with freshly painted gates and doors.
Maintaining over 100 buildings in some of Britain’s most remote areas is an enormous challenge. The work, done entirely by volunteers, goes beyond ordinary generosity. Tasks include carrying waste out of locations with toilets. Each bothy is overseen by two maintenance organizers, and larger repairs are carried out by work parties, which Neil Stewart, the MBA's communications head, confirmed rarely lack willing participants.
Bothies, though maintained, are far from luxurious. They typically lack electricity and running water, and even basic facilities like long-drop toilets are not guaranteed. A stove may be present, but fuel supplies are uncertain. Visitors must carry their comforts and prepare for camping, including bringing a tent in case the bothy is overcrowded or solitude is preferred.
One of the most unique aspects of bothies is the unpredictable company they provide, as noted by Phoebe Smith, author of The Book of the Bothy. “In a world where everything is bookable and controllable, the unpredictability of bothies is refreshing," she explained. "You might have the place to yourself or meet fascinating people and create unforgettable memories. Bothies foster connections with others.”
At Nant Syddion, two cyclists touring the area were already present. Space was found in an upstairs room, and time was spent together in the main room. While preparing a meal over a gas stove, the cyclists worked to light a fire. The thick walls and small windows of the bothy made it quickly dark as the light faded, so candles were lit, and chairs arranged around the fire.
Socialising is often a highlight of bothy experiences, though solitude is always an option. As the fire roared, drink was passed around—a traditional bothy drink—and stories were shared
Topics ranged from hiking trips in the Dolomites to encounters with ex-soldiers during a reunion in another bothy. Hours passed in laughter before the reality of the next day’s journey brought an end to the gathering.
A notable feature of every bothy is the bothy book, where visitors record experiences and motivations. Reading the entries revealed a variety of stories, from sheltering during rainstorms to accounts of alleged supernatural events. Entries appeared every few days, reflecting a steady stream of visitors.
In 2009, the MBA shared the locations of its bothies online, making them accessible to more people. Previously, knowledge of bothies relied on joining the association or stumbling upon them. While this decision was controversial, it aligned with the MBA’s mission of providing access to these shelters. Concerns about misuse, such as drinking parties, exist but are not unique to bothies, as wild camping also faces similar issues.
Though visitor numbers remain unrecorded, anecdotal evidence suggests increased usage since the information became widely available. Encouraging younger people to discover bothies has become essential, as many long-time users and volunteers are aging out.
Beyond the MBA network, there are still bothies maintained by estates or climbing clubs that retain their secrecy. Searching for these hidden shelters adds to the adventure, but every bothy experience is unique. The ever-changing mix of people using these shelters offers a rare opportunity to embrace unpredictability.
While leaving Nant Syddion the next morning, the bothy disappeared behind the trees. It would remain open for future visitors, ready to host more stories and experiences. As the MBA continues to expand, adding compostable toilets and planning new shelters, countless more memories await in these extraordinary spaces.
